The beautiful Romanian countryside, shot from inside a train.
Picture taken by Robyn Girard

We finally started moving, and this woman came into the same compartment- this was the first time, of all our long train rides, that we didn’t have a compartment to ourselves. She seemed a little stiff and asked us to close the window. But actually, she was very nice. When she left, she smiled and made it a point to wave good-bye. These things come from the most unexpected places here!

Along the way, Robyn and I talked about various topics, but mostly the scenery was depressing so we got quieter along the way- the poverty of Romania is fiercely evident wherever you go- only the farms seem less so.

It’s a 7-hour ride, so you can only mope for so long. We decided to play a card game- the only two we know are go-fish and 21!! It got a little dull at the end, but before we stopped, this weird old man came into our compartment and pointed to our cards. At first we weren’t sure how to react, but he grabbed our cards and we let him. He showed us a card trick, and was patient and kind about it, again amazing me and I have to keep chastening myself for judging a book by its’ cover- but its important to stay alert anyway.

Then things quieted down. At some point, we had our meal,
bread and applesauce. We made the mistake of leaving our full jar of apples evident on the top shelf (for putting bags on), and the cards were sticking out of Robyn’s bag. This little boy came in, perhaps 10 years of age or so, and started talking to us. We pointed to our ears and shook our heads, and he picked up quickly (bright boy, I’ll give him that) and started gesturing. He was pointing at the cards, he thought they were a box of cigarettes. We said they were cards and he kept on pointing, whether to the food or to the cards we’re still not sure of. He became aggravated and sat down, persisting. Then his friend came in, less bold, and was bald. His friend was more restrained. The first boy started pointing to Robyn’s alarm clock, which we had left on the window shelf so that we’d know what time it was. He spoke in his language, then said ‘clock’, ‘clock’, begging for it. We refused and finally had to usher them out of the compartment, physically. The first boy looked forlornly outside the compartment window for a few seconds, then the boys were on to the next compartment.

We saw them get off at the next stop, with some food- I’m glad someone did that, rather than give them items. But I wonder if they’re orphans or what kind of life they live. That first boy is really bright and could be so successful if only he had the opportunity. It’s sad. Robyn and I were a little shaken up after this, having not expected it at all. Then, with each stop, the scenery became worse and the people shadier-looking at each stop. It was starting to get dark, and Robyn and I were starting to freak out. What had we gotten ourselves into? Our stop was supposed to be next, but the train kept on stopping at these small unlisted train stations (now I realize it was a train mainly used by locals) where we kept on jumping and looking around for often nonexistent or hidden signs with the station’s name. Even though Suceava was supposedly the last stop, we were still scared we’d get carried off somewhere.

We had to brace ourselves, when we got off, determined to find the hostel and even said that if the place was that bad, we could always get onto another train outta the place (though probably not, it was late). It was perhaps 8 when we arrived at Suceava, and still light. We needed to find the hostel- we had to ask three people along the way, but all were cheerful and nice about it. That cheered us up a bit. The potted roads and somewhat shady houses changed into a gravel road and country houses. Our hostel was a big white country house. In the yard were chickens, dogs, and a sick kitten- aw!

And here we were in a Romanian house- and it smells heavenly! Food was cooking, and it costs 5 Euros for each meal, so we had to turn it down. The hostess, Monika, made enough soup and salad for us anyway, so we got to eat. We sat down at the dinner table, and across from us was this couple, really nice people. They were on their honeymoon- a three-week trip in Europe. Nice people! And they were from America, too, from Boston but not sure where they would be headed to after they got back (new job for Andy-perhaps California).

Dinner was soooooooooooo good! We had this delicious vegetable soup- Romanian style, with the first green vegetables I’ve had since- I can’t even remember, it’s that bad! Between the Gally diet and being in Germany for three weeks (pork all the way!), and being an extremely poor backpacker, veggies rarely figure into my diet. Homemade bread, delicious salad! I must have had 3 or four servings, I was that hungry! Then we had homemade ice cream – yum! Robyn and I had been craving ice cream for so long but could never buy any. The ice cream had some kind of raisins in it, and tasted like Bailey’s- yum!

We had good conversations with Andy and Rachel. Along the way, they mentioned that the hostess had said there’s a railroad strike so the trains are fewer and less reliable (for transportation to monasteries, etc.). She said ‘did you have any problems?’ Robyn and I shook our heads, then looked at each other and realized that’s what had held us up for so long that day!!! It was hilarious, and we explained the story to them. We said good night and conked out early, perhaps at 10 or so. I woke up around 7:30, refreshed. Breakfast was served- yum! This rice porridge- my kind of food!, meat, cheese, tea, yummy fruit preserves. I stuffed myself, ha, in a civilized way. The couple lent us their travel guide- Lonely traveler or something. A great book I wish we had.

Then we went off to Suceava, planning to eventually go to the monasteries, but it didn’t work out that way. We checked the internet (30 minutes) to send out some threats, info, and cries of help (family-money). Then we looked around, stopping by a couple of churches while looking for the bus to our hostel/train station. They were beautiful. One was more complete than the other, painted all over inside with beautiful murals with the story of Christ. Another had gorgeous architecture but seemed to have been damaged by a fire at one time.

Eventually, we found the right bus but it required too much cash. We decided to walk- it was a good walk on a gorgeous day, only long. 2-3 hours long.

By the way, we were dropped off at Suceava by the hostess. Nice of her! And we saw this huge fortress but didn’t enter because you have to pay. Along the way, a lady gave us a whole bunch of cherries for no good reason-so nice of her! Romanian hospitality is really great!

Me and Robyn with a deaf man that we met at the train station in Suceava on our last day there. He was with a buddy and they both exchanged signs with us. They also bought us a bunch of cherries, a Pepsi, and two bananas, which definitely improved our diet.
Picture taken by Robyn Girard